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Tablelands Taster

Crimson Rosella, Mt Hypipamee National Park, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

Tablelands Taster

Monday 25 May 2026

Clayton Smith, Lead Guide with David Lyons

Date

Monday 25 May 2026

Route

Kuranda → Herberton → Wondecla → Spring Creek Road → Mt Hypipamee NP → Yungaburra (Petersen Creek) → Hastie's Swamp NR

Conditions

Fine post-wet season morning, calm, good light

Guides

Clayton Smith · David Lyons

90 bird species recorded (4 heard only)

3 mammals · 1 reptile

  • Three Crimson Rosella at arm's length on the road at Hypipamee
  • All three bowerbird species, Tooth-billed, Satin and Golden, before noon
  • Platypus + Little Kingfisher simultaneously at Petersen Creek
  • Six species in one small bush at Petersen Creek
  • Plumed Whistling Duck flock lifting off at Hastie's Swamp

The wet season hadn't been gone long enough to cool anyone's enthusiasm. We picked up Julia and John at Kuranda and were already birding before the coffee stop, Red-winged Parrot, Australasian Figbird, and Blue-faced Honeyeater coming easily along the road before we'd properly started. The kind of morning that sets a tone.

David Lyons and Clayton Smith, Atherton Tablelands, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
David Lyons and Clayton Smith, Atherton Tablelands, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Australian King-Parrot, Herberton area, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Australian King-Parrot, Herberton area, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

Our first structured stop was Wondecla, in the open parkland at the edge of Herberton. The enormous old gums there reliably hold something worth stopping for, and today they delivered a pair of Jacky Winter working the outer branches, a Brown Cuckoo-Dove moving through the lower storey, a Rufous Whistler in strong voice, and a busy cohort of White-throated Honeyeater.

Jacky Winter, Wondecla, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Jacky Winter, Wondecla, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

We might have stayed longer, but the park mowers had other ideas. A Brown Cuckoo-Dove perched long enough for everyone to appreciate the warm rufous tones and the long graduated tail before dropping back into the scrub.

Brown Cuckoo-Dove, Wondecla, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Brown Cuckoo-Dove, Wondecla, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

Spring Creek Road was the remedy, quieter, more productive, and still holding the kind of mixed woodland that the Tablelands does better than anywhere. The Laughing Kookaburra that met us at the entrance seemed entirely unimpressed by our arrival.

Laughing Kookaburra, Spring Creek Road, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Laughing Kookaburra, Spring Creek Road, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

Our guests were already getting their eye in, phones and binoculars both working hard.

Julia and Clayton birding Spring Creek Road, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Julia and Clayton birding Spring Creek Road, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

Before we reached the creek itself, the lantana on the road verge erupted: at least fifty Red-browed Firetail Finch, all apparently content to line up in the morning sun and be looked at. It's the sort of sighting that stops conversation. We worked through the bush from there, eight or so Yellow-tinted Honeyeater, a few Grey Shrike-thrush, a small family party of Dusky Woodswallow, three Red-tailed Black-Cockatoo moving through with purpose, a Brown Treecreeper working the rough bark in tight spirals, and a Scarlet Myzomela dropping briefly to the creek edge for a drink.

Pale-yellow Robin, Mt Hypipamee NP, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Pale-yellow Robin, Mt Hypipamee NP, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

The creek itself was running hard after the wet, fast water over rocks, pandanus leaning in from both banks. The kind of habitat where you slow down and watch the edges.

Spring Creek, Springvale Road, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Spring Creek, Springvale Road, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

A Sahul Sunbird was working the flowering tree above the creek, the curved bill probing methodically through the pink inflorescence.

The Dusky Myzomela appeared briefly in the bottlebrush nearby, small, dark, easy to overlook unless the light catches it right.

Dusky Myzomela, Spring Creek Road, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Dusky Myzomela, Spring Creek Road, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

Mt Hypipamee was, as it usually is, the centrepiece of the morning. We'd barely turned off the highway when three Crimson Rosella dropped from the canopy to the roadside, arm's length, in full light, utterly unconcerned. From there the forest gave us everything it had. Tooth-billed, Satin, and Golden Bowerbird, all three species in a single morning session, which is not something to take for granted. Victoria's Riflebird moved through the mid-storey. Grey-headed and Pale-yellow Robin both showed well. Large-billed Scrubwren worked the leaf litter below us. And then, after a long tease of that unmistakable whipcrack call, an Eastern Whipbird flushed across the track and vanished into shadow, seen, if briefly, which is more than it often concedes.

Clayton Smith, Julia and John, Mt Hypipamee National Park, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Clayton Smith, Julia and John, Mt Hypipamee National Park, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Mt Hypipamee crater boardwalk, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Mt Hypipamee crater boardwalk, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

Lunch at the Yungaburra Hotel made sense on both counts: it's good, and it's a hundred metres from Petersen Creek. What happened at the creek was the kind of thing that's difficult to write without sounding like you're exaggerating. A single small bush held Macleay's Honeyeater, Rufous Fantail, Silvereye, Spectacled Monarch, Pied Monarch, and Large-billed Scrubwren simultaneously.

Pied Monarch, Petersen Creek Yungaburra, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Pied Monarch, Petersen Creek Yungaburra, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

While we were working through that, a Platypus surfaced in the creek behind us.

Platypus, Petersen Creek Yungaburra, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Platypus, Petersen Creek Yungaburra, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

And on the opposite bank, a Little Kingfisher landed on a low branch, sat still long enough for everyone to get on it properly, and then dropped for a bath. Our guests, already well-travelled in this region, went quiet in the way people do when something tips over from impressive into genuinely memorable.

Little Kingfisher, Petersen Creek Yungaburra, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Little Kingfisher, Petersen Creek Yungaburra, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

The Platypus, meanwhile, kept surfacing. Close enough to see the bill clearly, foraging without any apparent concern for the small group of humans watching from the bank.

Platypus, Petersen Creek Yungaburra, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Platypus, Petersen Creek Yungaburra, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

Hastie's Swamp in late May, fresh from the wet, was holding more water than birds, but the birds that were there made the stop worthwhile. The Plumed Whistling Duck were the first thing we saw, lifting off in a group as we arrived.

Plumed Whistling Duck, Pacific Black Duck, Magpie Goose, Australasian Grebe, and assorted egrets on the water.

The real action was in the carpark vegetation below the hide, where a pocket of small birds was cycling through in that afternoon restlessness you get as the light starts to soften: Eastern Yellow Robin, Brown Gerygone, Fairy Gerygone, Large-billed Scrubwren, Eastern Spinebill, Little Shrike-thrush, Grey Fantail, and a Yellow Boatbill, the latter always a pleasure, with that improbable bill and that faintly surprised expression.

Hastie's Swamp hide, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.
Hastie's Swamp hide, 25 May 2026. Photo: Kingfisher Birding.

We returned our guests to Kuranda in the late afternoon, with Brolga, Black-shouldered Kite, and Australian Magpie adding to the tally on the drive back. Ninety-nine species. A Platypus. A Saw-shelled Turtle. Three species of bowerbird before noon. For a pilot tour, we couldn't have scripted it better.

The next expedition goes out in August. Longer. Different habitats. We're already looking forward to what the dry season brings.

Clayton Smith, Lead Guide

Species Recorded

Waterbirds & Waders

  • Magpie GooseSmall group on the open water at Hastie's, typical post-wet aggregation.
  • Plumed Whistling DuckGood numbers at Hastie's, the plumes showing well in the afternoon light.
  • Pacific Black DuckPresent at Hastie's; the default duck of the Tablelands wetlands at this time of year.
  • HardheadA few among the ducks at Hastie's, the white undertail the giveaway at distance.
  • Australian DarterThe reptilian neck and dagger bill are unmistakable; seen briefly over Hastie's.
  • Little Pied CormorantThe commonest cormorant here; white face and underparts.
  • Little Black CormorantAll-dark, smaller than Great; a few at Hastie's.
  • Australasian GrebePair on Hastie's; that chestnut face stripe in fine condition.
  • Masked LapwingRoadsides en route; hard to miss, easy to underappreciate.
  • BrolgaTwo birds seen on the return drive in open paddock country, always an impressive sight at close range.

Herons & Egrets

  • Eastern Cattle EgretIn breeding plumage around cattle paddocks, orange-buff wash on head and breast.
  • Great EgretAt Hastie's; the large size and kinked neck in flight distinguish it from the next.
  • Plumed EgretAlso at Hastie's; note the gape ending below the eye, separating it from Great.

Rails & Swamphens

  • Australasian SwamphenAt Hastie's; the purple-blue gloss and red frontal shield in good light.
  • Eurasian CootAlso at Hastie's; white bill and frontal shield, lobed toes.

Megapodes

  • Australian BrushturkeyEncountered en route; the mound-building instinct on full display at Hypipamee.
  • Orange-footed MegapodeHeard in the rainforest understorey at Hypipamee; rarely seen despite its size.

Pigeons & Doves

  • Brown Cuckoo-DoveAt Wondecla; the warm rufous-brown and long tail; moves through mid-storey in that deliberate, unhurried way.
  • Crested PigeonOpen country; the upright crest and whistling wing-beat on takeoff.
  • Peaceful DoveRoadsides; tiny, barred, and easy to overlook.
  • Bar-shouldered DoveThe copper-scaled nape catches the light; more arboreal than Peaceful.

Raptors

  • Black-shouldered KiteOn the return, hovering over open country, one of Australia's most elegant small raptors.
  • Collared SparrowhawkBrief flyover; the squared tail tip and finer build separate it from Brown Goshawk.
  • Black KiteOne over the Herberton area; the forked tail diagnostic.
  • White-bellied Sea EagleDistant but unmistakable over the wetland; a big bird in the landscape.

Cuckoos

  • Sahul Brush Cuckoo (H)Heard in the rainforest understorey at Hypipamee; the descending, mournful whistle.

Swifts & Swallows

  • Australian SwiftletOver the wetland, flickering low; pale rump patch visible in good light.
  • Welcome SwallowThe forked tail and rufous throat; common and easy.
  • Tree MartinOver open ground; the square tail and white rump; gregarious in flight.

Woodswallows

  • White-breasted WoodswallowIn small groups; the clean white underparts and social nature.
  • Dusky WoodswallowA small family party on Spring Creek Road; the dark brown and blue-grey bill; often huddles together on exposed perches.

Parrots & Cockatoos

  • Red-tailed Black-CockatooThree birds on Spring Creek Road; the males' scarlet tail panels brilliant against the black.
  • Sulphur-crested CockatooInevitable; loud, white, everywhere.
  • Australian King-ParrotThe male's deep red and green is one of the better arguments for the Tablelands.
  • Red-winged ParrotSeen on the drive up; the crimson wing panel is the field mark, but the whole bird rewards attention.
  • Crimson RosellaThe three roadside birds at Hypipamee were exceptional; full adult plumage, utterly at ease.
  • Little Lorikeet (H)Heard overhead on Spring Creek Road; that sharp, high-pitched chatter; despite searching, couldn't locate them in the canopy.
  • Scaly-breasted LorikeetIn flight; the yellow-green scaling on the breast visible with bins in good light.
  • Rainbow LorikeetUbiquitous; the noise before the birds.

Kingfishers & Bee-eaters

  • Rainbow Bee-eaterIn flight over open ground; the long central tail streamers and turquoise-and-chestnut underparts immediately distinctive.
  • Little KingfisherThe Petersen Creek bird was the highlight of the day. Australia's smallest kingfisher, brilliant blue above, white below, improbably small, perched at eye level and stayed put.
  • Laughing KookaburraThe soundtrack of the Australian bush; greeted us at Spring Creek Road.
  • Forest KingfisherThe saturated blue and white; open country and woodland edges.

Currawongs & Corvids

  • Australian MagpieOpen country on the return; the carolling is one of the great Australian bird sounds.
  • Pied CurrawongIn the forest; the yellow eye and harsh, carrying call.

Robins

  • Jacky WinterThe pair at Wondecla; constant tail-fanning and that melancholy two-note call.
  • Grey-headed RobinAt Hypipamee; the grey hood contrasting with rufous breast; a bird that rewards patience.
  • Eastern Yellow RobinAt Hastie's carpark; the yellow breast and grey-olive back; perches low and watches.
  • Pale-yellow RobinAlso at Hypipamee; paler than Eastern Yellow, slightly washed out; a rainforest specialist that stays low and close.

Monarchs & Fantails

  • Yellow-breasted BoatbillAt Hastie's carpark; that broad, flat bill is unlike any other Australian bird. A north Queensland speciality that surprises most visitors.
  • Australian Spectacled MonarchThe rufous breast and white spectacles; active in the mid-storey at Petersen Creek.
  • Pied MonarchBlack-and-white, active, vocal; the Petersen Creek birds were in fine form.
  • Magpie-larkOpen ground; the bold black-and-white pattern; ubiquitous and often overlooked.
  • Willie WagtailThe incessant wagging, the confident demeanour; underrated.
  • Australian Rufous FantailPetersen Creek; the rufous rump and tail in constant motion; a restless, rewarding bird.
  • Grey FantailAlso at Hastie's; paler, more delicate than Rufous; the fanned tail is a nervous habit.

Whistlers & Shrike-thrushes

  • Grey ShrikethrushSpring Creek Road; the variable grey-brown plumage belies one of the finest songsters on the continent.
  • Little ShrikethrushAt Hastie's carpark; smaller and brighter than Grey; a bird worth slowing down for.
  • Rufous WhistlerAt Wondecla; the rich rufous underparts of the male and that powerful, carrying whistle.

Cuckooshrikes

  • White-bellied CuckooshrikeOverhead and in the canopy; the pale grey and clean white; leisurely wingbeats.

Bowerbirds

  • Tooth-billed BowerbirdAt Hypipamee; the stout, notched bill and the display court below, fresh leaves laid upside-down, pale side up.
  • Golden BowerbirdAlso at Hypipamee; the male's gold and olive plumage is extraordinary but the maypole bower itself is what stops people in their tracks.
  • Satin BowerbirdThe glossy blue-black male and the blue eye; the younger males and females in greenish plumage often fool beginners.

Whipbirds

  • Eastern WhipbirdThe long tease at Hypipamee before it showed: first the male's crack, then the female's answering notes, then briefly the bird itself crossing the track.

Riflebirds

  • Victoria's RiflebirdAt Hypipamee; the iridescent blue-green gorget of the male catches the light when he turns. One of the region's great birds.

Honeyeaters

  • Eastern SpinebillAt Hastie's carpark; the long curved bill and chestnut throat; always busy.
  • Lewin's HoneyeaterThe yellow ear patch and rolling machine-gun call; widespread through the wetter forests.
  • Yellow-tinted HoneyeaterSpring Creek Road, eight or so birds; drab but characterful; the drier woodland species in this group.
  • Dusky MyzomelaThe small, dark honeyeater of the canopy; often overlooked unless the light catches it.
  • Scarlet MyzomelaThe Spring Creek bird was excellent; the male's red is startling against the dark bark. Brief as it was, nobody missed it.
  • Brown HoneyeaterWidespread; the small size and unobtrusive brown; identified by elimination as much as anything.
  • Blue-faced HoneyeaterThe blue facial skin is one of the more arresting patterns in Australian honeyeaters; seen on the drive up.
  • White-throated HoneyeaterAt Wondecla; active and numerous in the flowering gums.
  • Macleay's HoneyeaterThe Petersen Creek bird was part of the famous multi-species bush moment; the yellow-streaked brown and white facial pattern distinctive.
  • Noisy FriarbirdThe bare grey head and the casque; loud, sociable, unsubtle.

Treecreepers

  • White-throated TreecreeperWorking bark on the larger trees; the diagnostic white throat patch; spirals up the trunk with mechanical precision.
  • Brown TreecreeperSpring Creek Road; a piping call that carries well; spirals up the trunk with that mechanical precision.

Cisticolas

  • Golden-headed CisticolaIn long grass; the golden cap in breeding plumage; flushes and drops back quickly.

Scrubwrens & Gerygones

  • Yellow-throated Scrubwren (H)Heard but not seen at Hypipamee; an occupational hazard of scrubwren-watching.
  • Large-billed ScrubwrenSeen at multiple sites; the heavy bill and restless foraging through leaf litter; a reliable companion through the day.
  • Mountain ThornbillAt Hypipamee; the streaked breast and upland habitat; easy to conflate with other thornbills without attention to the streaking.
  • Brown GerygoneAt Hastie's carpark; the soft, descending call often locates it before the eye does.
  • Fairy GerygoneAlso at Hastie's; slightly richer below than Brown; the two species often associate.

Silvereyes

  • SilvereyePetersen Creek; the white eye-ring and olive-green plumage; moves through in loose flocks.

Sunbirds

  • Sahul SunbirdThe curved bill, the yellow underparts; the male's purple-blue throat patch iridescent in good light.

Pipits

  • Australian PipitOpen country; the streaked brown above, white outer tail feathers; walks rather than hops.

Finches

  • Red-browed FiretailSpring Creek Road; fifty birds in the roadside lantana was the morning's showstopper. The red supercilium and rump are vivid even at speed.

Orioles & Drongos

  • Australasian FigbirdSeen on the drive up; the olive-green body and bare red facial skin of the male; gregarious in fruiting trees.
  • Spangled DrongoThe fish-tail and the iridescent blue spangles; a confident, aggressive bird.

Starlings

  • Common MynaPresent; introduced; noted for completeness.

Mammals

  • Agile WallabyIn open country on the return drive; the pale hip stripe the field mark.
  • Red-legged PademelonIn rainforest understorey at Hypipamee; the rufous leg colouration and compact build.
  • PlatypusPetersen Creek, Yungaburra. Present and actively foraging during lunch. Still one of the more improbable animals on the planet, the bill clearly visible as it surfaced repeatedly alongside us.

Reptiles

  • Saw-shelled TurtleNoted at one of the creek sites; the serrated posterior margin of the shell is diagnostic.